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2022.06.03 added links to LisaList1 and LisaFAQ to the General Category

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 11 
 on: Yesterday at 09:56:20 am 
Started by andrew - Last post by blusnowkitty
To my knowledge there are no ways of getting the Office System to talk to a modern printer - it's Apple Daisy Wheel, ImageWriter, or Canon Inkjet only.

There are ImageWriter emulations in a couple of the big Apple II emulators. How complete they are, how they function, and how hard it'd be to make that code standalone I couldn't tell you.

 12 
 on: Yesterday at 01:58:01 am 
Started by andrew - Last post by andrew
Is there a straightforward way to network a Lisa to a modern printer? I'm thinking of getting an ImageWriter but I'd rather not have to purchase and maintain a 40 year old printer if there's an alternative solution. I specifically want to be able to print out graphical documents from LisaDraw and the rest of the 7/7.

 13 
 on: February 19, 2024, 06:18:26 pm 
Started by byteshop - Last post by ried
Apologies, I should be more clear. Some of the original bezel badges have horizontal siping and some have vertical. However, all of the reproduction badges (that we know of) have vertical siping. Here's another example of the reproductions:

https://imgur.com/gallery/hBVwMsu

As noted, there are several other key differences. Look closely at the shapes of the letters, the beveled edges, and so on. For example, look at the shape of the "v" where the i meets the s in the script. It's a sharp v in the original badges, and a funky "u" shape in the reproductions. One of many discrepancies that are easy to see, even at a distance.

 14 
 on: February 19, 2024, 03:03:23 pm 
Started by byteshop - Last post by greniu
 I would not be so certain with the statement that horizontal lines are original bezel. Here I found two examples of bezels with vertical lines on Lisa script.

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/apple-lisa-0-twiggy-front-bezel-1855151843

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/original-oem-apple-lisa-0-computer-4591395455

 15 
 on: February 19, 2024, 05:26:04 am 
Started by andrew - Last post by iJol
I guess it's not a problem with manual and auto-inject drives, the difference between them started with the 1.44 MB SuperDrives in the LC-Series if I remember correctly  - you can see this on the several LCs: some have a flush faceplate and some have a rounded floppy faceplate for pushing the floppy in.

It's more a difference between the wiring of 400k and some, not all, 800k drives.

Pin 9 carries -12v and pin 20 carries the spindle speed signal for the 400k drives, which some of the 800k drives will confuse because they don't need these signals. There are two kinds of 800k drives, the red label and the black label ones. On black label drives, pin 9 is not connected and so nothing will happen, but on the red label drives, pin 9 goes to the manual eject button and your drive will go crazy.

My Lisa 2/10 / Sun Mac XL had an 800k red label drive with a modded connector missing Pin 9 and Pin 20.

 16 
 on: February 18, 2024, 12:02:15 pm 
Started by andrew - Last post by AlexTheCat123
Ohhhhh! I had always wondered why one of my Lisas with an 800K floppy upgrade had a label on top of the floppy drive that said that "this 800K drive must be used with the cable that was included with the drive" but I guess that explains it! I thought it was really strange that you couldn't just use the existing 400K drive cable, but this makes a lot of sense if Sun switched over to using the manual inject drives at some point.

 17 
 on: February 18, 2024, 04:00:19 am 
Started by andrew - Last post by andrew
It's an incredible relief to know there's a simple explanation for this. Rather than cutting wires on that digikey part, I'll just find a yellow stripe cable on ebay and swap it with the red stripe cable I'm using between my floppy A/B switch and the drive cage cable. Hopefully this will fix the issue.

 18 
 on: February 17, 2024, 11:37:32 pm 
Started by andrew - Last post by ried
That is an excellent explanation and I concur. Ran into the same issue with my Macintosh 128K, and changing the floppy drive cable fixed it. I did not know it would affect a Lisa in the same way.

 19 
 on: February 17, 2024, 08:13:12 pm 
Started by andrew - Last post by sigma7
800K drives ... run their ejection mechanisms constantly

Apple changed the 800k drive version at some point, and this was the symptom if the newer version was put into one of the earlier Macs.

I think the version change may have corresponded to removal of the "auto-inject" feature of the earlier drives, where the earlier drives would sort of finish the insertion of a disk for you with a snap action, while the later version required that you keep pressing the disk in until it dropped down with a more manual feel like the 400k drives. (Or maybe I've got that backwards.)

The newer drives (or some at least) used a ribbon cable with a yellow stripe instead of a red one. Those cables are missing conductors in the 9th and 20th positions. That isn't evident unless you look at the end of the ribbon where you can see those are solid plastic whereas the others contain obvious metal strands.

So disabling the constant eject requires disconnecting one or both of those. (Perhaps someone else knows if both need to be cut?)

Since you probably don't want to modify your Lisa's cabling (so you can use a 400k drive in the future), you might purchase/make an extension or something similar.

eg. cut wires 9 & 20 of DigiKey part# H3AWH-3006G

edit: added some details, DigiKey part#, corrected some errors and made new ones

 20 
 on: February 17, 2024, 07:53:39 pm 
Started by wagbox - Last post by wagbox
... the floppy cable within the drive cage itself ...

It's been so long since I've seen a 2/10 in it's original state I'd forgotten all about this (and a whole lot of other things as you've all prolly noticed from my posts -- apologies for the errors).

On the 2/10, the rear of the floppy drive is difficult to access in the drive cage as there isn't much space below the Widget, and the cooling fan is partially obstructing it.

So to make it easier to disconnect/remove the drive cage, there is a short 20 pin ribbon cable extension (about 6" / 15cm long) with a flanged male connector mounted to the rear of the drive cage beside the fan, and a female connector that plugs into the drive. When you remove the drive cage, this short cable goes with it. The cable in the chassis plugs into this extension rather than the drive itself.

On my 2/10, this short extension is indeed a rainbow ribbon cable, whereas the chassis mounted ribbon cables are all grey.

edit: since this is a straight through extension, OP could eliminate this as a potential source of problems by connecting the FEMU directly to the grey chassis cable.

I tried that actually, but nothing changed. I'll have to try the Emu on one of my Macs at my parents' place

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