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2019.06.07 fixed NChat for the "Curve" theme, will eventually move it to its own page and add it to the default theme as well. Other plugins are next. see post in the Meta board for details

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 1 
 on: January 11, 2022, 04:59:40 pm 
Started by blusnowkitty - Last post by stepleton
In re file save/open, my recollection of the ToolKit documentation is that there's pretty good support for serialisation of the object state of your program, and that the creation of a stationery pad is also handled automatically by the Workshop program that installs a tool onto your Office System desktop. See Segment 2 of Lisa ToolKit Self-Paced Training, "What is a Document?", especially this quote on PDF page 23:

Quote
The end user can put a document away using a command in the File/Print Menu. The document heap (holding the view, the panel, the window, and whatever else had a hand in managing your document's data) is copied into a file. Then the file gets closed. Finally, the window frame goes away, leaving an icon as the sole reminder of the document.

What's not clear in this quote is that the ToolKit does this all for you --- you don't have to write code that does it yourself. So as far as #4 goes, I think you get all that for free if you use the ToolKit. #1 is also the case as I understand it, though ToolKit apps make use of a thin layer on top of QuickDraw that uses 32-bit X and Y coordinates for drawing instead of QuickDraw's 16-bit values. For everything else: a journey through creating the world's first substantial new ToolKit application in decades (so far as I know) awaits you! Good luck!  :D

(I know that must sound sarcastic, but it would be incredible if you or anyone else made a new ToolKit app. Someday I'll get around to trying it myself...)

ETA: Having neither attempted to author a ToolKit program nor having examined the MacPaint code, I'd be surprised if there was an easy way to get the MacPaint code to run on the ToolKit. There may be a different way to write code for the Office System that's a little easier --- maybe QuickPort would be a better choice?

 2 
 on: January 11, 2022, 04:02:51 pm 
Started by blusnowkitty - Last post by sigma7
Thanks for the clarification, I'll add this to the bug list.

Any clues on why low-level formatting a 5MB Profile with BLU is failing during the Spare Sector format? I keep seeing Status 00000001 or 00000003 midway through the Spare Sector format.

This is no fault. It just means that 1 resp. 3 spare blocks are in use. As long as this number is below 0x1F your drive will be useable.

 3 
 on: January 11, 2022, 11:33:35 am 
Started by rayarachelian - Last post by rayarachelian
Minor update: fixed some of the copy/paste bugs in TerminalWx code, so this helps us on the road to a future where we'll have a mostly usable terminal window for things like UniPlus, and eventually Xenix, and LPW, as well as a built in interface for BLU to connect LisaEm to an actual physical Lisa. Terminal for things like the unixes and LPW would be very useful for me so I can write code without being limited by a bitmap screen and lack of clipboard passing between host and guest. Eventually (maybe 2.0?) the idea is to have the ability to call LisaEm headless and compile things form a host side Makefile, sort of like that modern day MPW package.

Eventually will add preferences for the Terminal window to select terminal size (80x25 for now), font (Courier New), font size (12 for now), colors, etc. (Likely I'll add a preferences notebook page for this in 1.2.8.)

TerminalWx is not full featured, but it's good enough, lacks a lot of features (most notably double click and triple click don't select properly, no scrollback, etc.), but, it's better than nothing. The alternative would be to try to interface with an external program by creating a pty, but that would be problematic with Windows. If there's interest in future releases.

Still need to fix UniPlus installs (sunix kernel v1.1 profile bugs) before RC4. Hopefully by end of this month if all goes well.

 4 
 on: January 10, 2022, 03:19:24 pm 
Started by blusnowkitty - Last post by rayarachelian
I wonder how much of a technical challenge it would be to port MacPaint back to the Lisa. The source code is out there, after all, but certain parts of the original code were moved to the Macintosh ROM so I'm guessing the whole thing would be a nontrivial undertaking.

Regardless, a barebones version of LisaPaint would be better than nothing!

No idea, never tried, but a few things incase you're interested in this:

1. QuickDraw routines should likely be the same or at least close.
2. Fonts might be handled very differently, but not sure about the calls for those.
3. Lisa Office System lacks a resource manager, so anything that requires it will need a rewrite.
4. File Save/Open won't existing in LOS, so would need to be save on every change, etc. and have a tear off stationary available.

 5 
 on: January 10, 2022, 11:08:34 am 
Started by blusnowkitty - Last post by andrew
I'd also love to see LisaPaint/LisaSketch/SketchPad. I love doodling in MacPaint and it would be a joy to be able to do similar drawings on my Lisa.

Then again, after taking another look at the page on Folklore (https://www.folklore.org/StoryView.py?project=Macintosh&story=MacPaint_Evolution.txt) it seems like many of the more interesting features of MacPaint were developed well after Bill had switched to Macintosh development. I wonder how much of a technical challenge it would be to port MacPaint back to the Lisa. The source code is out there, after all, but certain parts of the original code were moved to the Macintosh ROM so I'm guessing the whole thing would be a nontrivial undertaking.

Regardless, a barebones version of LisaPaint would be better than nothing!

 6 
 on: January 08, 2022, 09:49:11 am 
Started by andrew - Last post by rayarachelian
I'd agree about staying away from RetroBrite, Lisas are exceedingly rare, a lot fewer exist than previously believed. Be careful with yours. Over time the plastic will get more and more brittle until it will actually break apart. I haven't seen this happen (yet) to Lisas, but I have seen the tabs on the front of the Lisa faceplate break off - though admittedly this was in shipping so it might have been poor packaging.

I've also seen the metal locks on the back of a Lisa break off where they're attached to the plastic - the plastic around them just cracked and the nut fell off with a small rough plastic collar around it leaving a hole in the back panel and no way to hold the back panel in place anymore.

I'd also be careful about using  dishwasher, we don't know if the heat will damage the plastics more. Most sources say don't wash knives with plastic handles in a dishwasher, so certainly don't do that to your Lisa's plastics despite what the FAQ says. Be gentle, use only warm water and gentle detergents.

Melamine "Magic" erasers might work, but they do so by shaving off the top layer of plastic, so I wouldn't do that either.

There's also been some new info about what causes the yellowing, and it's not UV, but rather heat and oxidation - a lot of this has to do with the flame retardants they used back then. You can reverse it just with sunlight or a UV lamp.

see: https://dfarq.homeip.net/retrobright-with-sunlight-and-no-chemicals/ and many others.

 7 
 on: January 08, 2022, 04:55:32 am 
Started by andrew - Last post by patrick
Stay away from RetroBrite and similar products. This damages the plastic, it turns yellow again quite quickly afterwards, and it also becomes brittle. This is only good for devices that you want to sell quickly on ebay and that have to look nice for a short time.

This is nothing for a serious collector

 8 
 on: January 07, 2022, 10:15:08 pm 
Started by andrew - Last post by andrew
Hello!

I have a Lisa 2/10. I just got it up and running again with a new X/Profile and a mac2lisa keyboard adapter. The case has a lot of yellowing. I was looking at the FAQ at lisafaq.sunder.net and it has this to say on the topic of cleaning the case, sourced from a post on the original LisaList:

Quote
Take the Lisa apart, remove all of the external case panels off the steel frame. DO NOT LEAVE ANY METAL PARTS, ONLY WASH THE PLASTIC! Run them through the 'Pots and Pans' cycle in your dishwasher with a double shot of detergent. This will clean all the dirt and fingerprints off and remove a lot of the yellowing that comes from many years of absorbing the atmosphere. (The author used Sun Light Gel by Lever Brothers, but other detergents may work.)

There have been some discussions on some of the other LEM lists, like the Compact Mac list, that mention cleaning some very smoke yellowed compact case with detergent and bleach and leaving them out in the sun. (Careful, this could damage the plastic.) Source: Dan Pennington, Brooklyn Park, MN / LisaList 2003.09.23

Is it really safe to just throw the case parts into a dishwasher? Has anyone here tried cleaning a Lisa like that? It definitely seems like an easier solution than going through the process of retrobrighting it (I assume that is what the last paragraph is essentially referring to, although this technically predates the coining of that phrase if I'm not mistaken).

 9 
 on: January 06, 2022, 07:58:38 pm 
Started by rayarachelian - Last post by rayarachelian
Appreciate the save, wanting to get the whole thing scanned in. Not sure if the owner is looking to sell it rather than scan it in based on the latest comments. Long as these docs get scanned in and make their way here to to bitsavers, all is good. Let's see what happens.

 10 
 on: January 06, 2022, 05:13:27 pm 
Started by rayarachelian - Last post by compu_85
We should save a copy here just in case.

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