�On August 15th, 2026. I won a local auction for an Apple Lisa!!!
Ok, ok, it was posted missing a few parts, and not working but still it turns out it's an Apple Lisa 1 that was converted. And there is no ugly battery issues, or corrosion. I'm just missing a few parts (power button and cable, and video cable). Here are a few photos. I'm so thrilled. Even AI said it was worth around $4,000 because of the cosmetic condition of it. I paid $1,525CAD + action fees.
It's an interesting mix: based on your photos on 68kmla (https://68kmla.org/bb/threads/i-won-the-bid-for-a-local-auction-i-have-an-apple-lisa.53038/#post-600299), you have a Lisa 2/5 motherboard with a Lisa 2/10 I/O board plugged into it; there is also the Widget drive from a Lisa 2/10 in the front. As you mention that the system is an upgraded Lisa 1, then the internal wiring harness going to the drive bay should not be compatible with the Widget.
I would say: do not turn this computer on. There is a chance that a Twiggy drive floppy cable is plugged into the Widget's parallel port. The floppy cable has +12V on several of its pins, and that could damage electronics which are expecting no more than +5V. My recommendation is to pull out the disk cage and let's see what the cabling situation is like in there first...
Hi Stepleton,
Yes, I don't think the power supply works, or would need some testing. This is what I have planned.
- Lisa Front Panel Interconnect Board (Apple Part Number: 652-0112 or 820-0081). [eBay $89]
or maybe a modern solution?, internal wire harness?
- Widget Data Connector [eBay $xxxxx] or DIY Make? connector 2 x 30: 591-0002 B CCI - Date: 5683
- ESPROFILE (Emulating a Lisa Profile). (Either internal, need Widget Data Connector. cable or parallel). [juicycrumb.com $99 + $19]
- A mouse, (or I can use my mouse for my Apple //c). [done]
- Tex ELECT foam and foil capacitive pads. [texelec.com $28.99]
- Apple Lisa Analog Video Board. - [eBay $.xxxx ]
- Power Supply (check for RIFER Caps and adjust the poteniometer)
I will keep the floppy and the hard drive, but will run OS from Esprofile. If I get brave enough, I could try and fix the floppy and HardDrive. Here's a few more pictures.
(https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/l1zoxsf71wl2bo7sbaxvx/Apple-Lisa1.jpeg?rlkey=dvn7bsd4exqs0p1lev4u20rg2&st=cafx12l4&dl=0)
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/tz8ypdcgdwj9op80mc5fz/Apple-Lisa01.jpeg?rlkey=rmduhyhibcaxhvws1vwms9274&st=v49t17u5&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/82jd6es9lg4hsn156sziw/Apple-Lisa2.jpeg?rlkey=ifuhn3tg8oxyxqozjrz6w1513&st=driy76s4&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ylqmdlyinj8rgibqj8g63/Apple-Lisa3.jpeg?rlkey=aa063xx93tzi8bnr0bzgi8792&st=81zddkhq&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/451tapntrfnwm4b2idh6n/Apple-Lisa4.jpeg?rlkey=qivpf8cx1xvk2do12q8x4wey1&st=u9ap19nj&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/3u8cv4fktgc2urohs7hsb/Apple-Lisa5.jpeg?rlkey=txaoyeb003a40y35vjxaw8ewe&st=yqwhvg6l&dl=0
Really neat find. Looking forward to following your Lisa adventures 8)
Make sure that you get a Lisa 1 or Lisa 2/5 (they're the same) wire harness to go between your drive cage and the empty edge connector cutout in the card cage. As @stepleton said, you have a 2/5 motherboard, so if you get a 2/10 harness that's designed for connecting a Widget drive, all of the signals coming from the connector will be routed to the wrong places. You'll want to plug your hard drive into the parallel port on the back of the Lisa; the hard drive signals don't even exist on that edge connector on the 2/5 motherboard.
Hi AlexTheCat123, thanks so much. I've also enjoyed watching your videos on YouTube you are a legend. And You created the Espprofile? Would that work to run my Lisa? I know getting the HDD and FDD would be the ultimate goal, but I think if I can get the following setup to see if it boots first:
- Front Panel Power and Keyboard Board
- Create a cable to connect to that Front Panel board
then run an Apple //c Monochrome monitor, and see if she boots to the diagnostic screen. (After a good look at the power supply).
then I can move on to a few more pieces/parts to get the OS booted
- Lisa Video Card
- HDD,
- FDD
Quote from: berskyboy on August 22, 2026, 05:53:23 PMHi AlexTheCat123, thanks so much. I've also enjoyed watching your videos on YouTube you are a legend. And You created the Espprofile? Would that work to run my Lisa? I know getting the HDD and FDD would be the ultimate goal, but I think if I can get the following setup to see if it boots first:
- Front Panel Power and Keyboard Board
- Create a cable to connect to that Front Panel board
then run an Apple //c Monochrome monitor, and see if she boots to the diagnostic screen. (After a good look at the power supply).
then I can move on to a few more pieces/parts to get the OS booted
- Lisa Video Card
- HDD,
- FDD
Thank you! And yes, I did create ESProFile. It'll work great with your Lisa. You can buy one from Juicy Crumb like you had mentioned, but I'd suggest ordering some directly from JLCPCB following the instructions on the ESProFile GitHub page, which will likely be cheaper. And then you'll have 5 of them and can sell the others that you don't need.
Yeah, that sounds like a good plan for initial testing. Keep in mind that the image won't look quite right on the Apple //c monitor (it won't be able to sync to it properly), but you'll still be able to make out everything that's on the display and confirm whether or not it's starting up properly.
The cable that connects to the front panel board is a small portion of the edge connector that also connects to the floppy drives in the drive cage, so I'd suggest just making the whole cable at once instead of having to make a partial cable and then taking it apart to make a full one later. You'll probably struggle to find one on eBay now that VintageMicros has closed, but luckily Adrian built one from scratch while restoring his Lisa and documented the whole process on video: https://youtu.be/ohLDLJR-4-o?list=PL4tFqFVNf5LQ-OE8JGNMJQoVOmgkyTorC&t=422
And just to reiterate because I had someone email me recently who made this mistake: don't plug a ProFile or Widget into the 26-pin connectors on the cable that you build. Those are for floppy drives and will likely fry both your hard drive and parts of your Lisa if you plug a hard drive into one.
I wanted to ask the list...
To get it running I need.
1. Lisa Front Panel Interconnect Board (Apple Part Number: 652-0112 or 820-0081)
2. The cable harness, which I think I can DYI
3. Apple Lisa Analog Video Board.
And some other parts like the key foil capacitive pads for the keyboard. And a look at the PSU
I found one link on eBay for #1 but he doesn't ship to Canada :( does any have any other leads or where I can look or post for desired parts.
My plan
Run the Lisa from ESProFile, with Apple Lisa Keybaord, and Apple //c mouse, using PSU,
CPU board, Lisa I/O board, 2 x RAM boards, and Lisa CRT.
Quote from: berskyboy on August 24, 2026, 08:37:24 PMI found one link on eBay for #1 but he doesn't ship to Canada
Contact the seller to double check, I find most will mail to Canada if you ask nicely (but I haven't tried recently... ymmv)
Quote from: berskyboy on August 24, 2026, 08:37:24 PM1. Lisa Front Panel Interconnect Board (Apple Part Number: 652-0112 or 820-0081)
Is this the lighted power soft switch? If so, I have an extra and can send it (gratis). Canada's alright with me.
Quote from: ried on August 24, 2026, 09:04:59 PMQuote from: berskyboy on August 24, 2026, 08:37:24 PM1. Lisa Front Panel Interconnect Board (Apple Part Number: 652-0112 or 820-0081)
Is this the lighted power soft switch? If so, I have an extra and can send it (gratis). Canada's alright with me.
Hi Ried yes, I have no way of turning it on. I need the board also that's where you plug in the keyboard.
My address is
[redacted by sigma7]
I can wire you some money too.
Quote from: berskyboy on August 25, 2026, 12:07:26 AM[redacted by sigma7]
No need for payment. Karma is real.
sigma7 kindly forwarded your details and it'll be on its way tomorrow. Cheers.
Hi, good morning,
So I put the Apple Lisa Video card in. I put the Yoke pins into the Tube carefully making sure it lined up and the pins were straight. I put P1 (Red and White) and P2 (Green and Yellow)
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/a6ufm4ge7x852k15bavbi/P1-and-P2-Lisa-Video-Board.heic?rlkey=bcjfbaaf32te7pq0tfvz5lrbd&st=22w2u3qi&dl=0
1. I also wanted to know how to ground the white wire,
2. The small green and white wire seem to be grounds?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/qae6ed3mu7onn45dfcffi/Ground-plus-green-and-yellow.heic?rlkey=upumms96ri0otqhf03pn03d0e&st=nnic0692&dl=0
Resource:
Apple Lisa Manuel
https://media.512pixels.net/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/Lisa-DIY-Guide.pdf. (page 47-48)
Quote from: berskyboy on September 28, 2026, 11:53:07 AM1. I also wanted to know how to ground the white wire
2. The small green and white wire seem to be grounds?
The white wire from the tube socket does go to the spade connector on the metal chassis as in your picture.
The two thin green and white wires go to the front panel safety interlock switch (near the bottom left corner of the CRT). Many people just disable the switch, so that may be why your wires are cut.
Quote from: sigma7 on September 28, 2026, 12:47:39 PMThe white wire from the tube socket does go to the spade connector on the metal chassis as in your picture.
so the white wire goes to the read circle?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lgmzu07e6eve7dusb7v0t/White-Wire-goes-to-Red-Circle.jpeg?rlkey=0wxa7j8uncfm485z00tj1p9ht&st=t4yvxw57&dl=0
Also, do I need to worry about this? (I asked AI about the picture)
⚠️ Crucial Step: Where is the CRT Aquadag Ground Strap?
Because that white wire goes to the neck socket, you must verify the main CRT static grounding strap is still present.
- Look for a bare, uninsulated braided metal wire or a thin tension spring stretched tightly across the black matte coating (aquadag) on the wide, curved part of the glass funnel.
- This braided strap must connect to a grounding point on one of the four metal corner mounting ears of the CRT frame.
Double-check that the bare metal grounding strap is contacting the black glass coating before you reinstall the main plastic outer housing.
CRT televisions and monitors can cause serious injury or death, even when unplugged for days, weeks, or months. Read and follow all precautions before opening any CRT device.
LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGE
The anode (high-voltage) circuit can hold 20,000-30,000+ volts on the tube's second anode, the suction-cup connector on the glass.
Capacitors, including the tube itself, can retain a dangerous charge long after power is removed.
Flyback transformers and the associated circuitry can also deliver painful or dangerous shocks.
IMPLOSION HAZARD
The glass envelope is under vacuum and can implode violently if cracked, scratched, or struck.
Flying glass can cause severe lacerations and eye injuries.
Never carry a tube by its neck. Never apply pressure to the neck or the neck board.
Wear safety glasses or a face shield at all times.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Unplug the device from mains power.
Work only if you are trained or experienced with high-voltage electronics. If you are not, do not open the case.
Never work alone. Have someone nearby who can call for help and knows CPR.
Keep one hand in your pocket or behind your back when probing live circuits, to avoid a path across your chest and heart.
Remove jewelry and metal accessories.
Work on a dry, non-conductive surface. Keep liquids away from the work area.
DISCHARGING
Discharge the anode only with a properly insulated, high-voltage discharge tool and a known-good ground connection, following the correct procedure for your specific device.
Never use a bare screwdriver or improvised tool. This can damage components and injure you.
Do not assume the tube is discharged. Verify with an appropriate high-voltage probe.
Recharging can occur after discharge (dielectric absorption), so re-check before touching.
Quote from: TorZidan on September 28, 2026, 02:24:38 PMCRT televisions and monitors can cause serious injury or death, even when unplugged for days, weeks, or months. Read and follow all precautions before opening any CRT device.
hi TorZidan, yup it came unplugged and the CRT was even upside down. I'm still working bench testing the PSU. So no power as of yet. And could have been for a decade or so :), but yes I made a screwdriver with an alligator clip and have discharged few vintage CRTs (NeXT Monitor, Mac SE).
My question was regarding what AI said, and I'm wondering if I'm missing any parts.
https://youtube.com/shorts/K4iUFtFl23A
Quote from: berskyboy on September 28, 2026, 04:05:19 PMI made a screwdriver with an alligator clip and have discharged few vintage CRTs (NeXT Monitor, Mac SE).
For the benefit of others, that would be a "sufficiently insulated" screwdriver, as a few KV will go through the otherwise insulating handle of many screwdrivers. This kind of non-obvious detail is why the warning specifies "Work only if you are trained or experienced with high-voltage electronics." Working around the CRT is dangerous: proceed at your own risk!
Also, the alligator clip is typically wired through a high value resistor so the current surge is limited.
Note that the high voltage of the CRT stinger will damage/destroy a DMM unless a working high voltage probe is used properly. According to the video board schematic, the Lisa CRT HV is 13KV (and may be higher if there is a fault in the circuitry). DMMs are typically limited to 1KV, some much less.
Quotethe CRT was even upside down.
An upside down CRT might be intended as a warning sign. You've found quite a project!
QuoteMy question was regarding what AI said
It is good you asked. It looks like AI has led you astray a couple of times already, so we should all take its responses as "concepts to investigate" rather than "directions to follow" as worded.
The black coating/paint on the CRT should have a low resistance to the chassis. This connection is made (on some Lisa CRTs at least) via a flat copper spring loop at one side of the CRT. (Different from what AI said it would be)
If the spring isn't there, and you don't have a low resistance from the chassis to the black conductive dag coating, then indeed some other connection is needed.
Quoteand I'm wondering if I'm missing any parts
In your video, I see a Widget hard drive (above the floppy drive), which if still working, you probably don't want to use since a modern emulator will give better performance, be more convenient, and preserve what life is left (if any) in the Widget.
The Widget does not have a power or data cable connected. What are the cables in that area that are not connected?
Given the other oddities, I wonder if you have a full wiring harness... check if there is a card edge connector for the PSU to plug into, another for the motherboard to plug into, and another for the video card to plug into. There should also be a connector plugged into the flyback transformer, the other ends of the thin green and white wires, and wires going to the speaker behind the front panel safety interlock switch. And finally, another (non-ribbon cable) connector in the drive cage area (there are two different types, depending on the type of wiring harness).
You may/probably need to clean and re-lubricate the 400K Sony drive if you wish to use it.
Quote from: sigma7 on September 28, 2026, 04:57:24 PMQuote from: berskyboy on September 28, 2026, 04:05:19 PMI made a screwdriver with an alligator clip and have discharged few vintage CRTs (NeXT Monitor, Mac SE).
It is good you asked. It looks like AI has led you astray a couple of times already, so we should all take its responses as "concepts to investigate" rather than "directions to follow" as worded.
The black coating/paint on the CRT should have a low resistance to the chassis. This connection is made (on some CRTs at least) via a copper wide spring loop at one side of the CRT. (Different from what AI said it would be)
If the spring isn't there, and you don't have a low resistance from the chassis to the dag coating, then indeed some other connection is needed.
So I'm not 100% certain what I'm looking for here, here's another look at the CRT
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e73juylm4yrwcdzws1lj6/Lisa-CRT.HEIC?rlkey=2nnsz4katm1txogbylds112kz&st=1lzh311w&dl=0
And I did created a 60 pin cable after watching Adrian's YouTube Video.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/fss0cuwubwnschhmr5564/Recreated-Ribbon.HEIC?rlkey=f5fkgyglxtyuvj0dl7lh3i2bn&st=ohtg7269&dl=0
Quote from: berskyboy on September 28, 2026, 05:36:42 PMQuote from: sigma7 on September 28, 2026, 04:57:24 PMThe black coating/paint on the CRT should have a low resistance to the chassis. This connection is made (on some CRTs at least) via a copper wide spring loop at one side of the CRT. (Different from what AI said it would be)
So I'm not 100% certain what I'm looking for here
1. Use the DMM to measure the resistance from the black paint (on the CRT) to the silvery metal chassis.
2. Look around the perimeter of the CRT for a copper coloured flat spring that goes between the CRT and the silvery metal chassis.
Quote from: TorZidan on September 28, 2026, 02:24:38 PMCRT televisions and monitors can cause serious injury or death
Thanks for posting this warning; I'll repost it to the Troubleshooting area.
Quote from: sigma7 on September 28, 2026, 05:51:19 PM1. Use the DMM to measure the resistance from the black paint (on the CRT) to the silvery metal chassis.
2. Look around the perimeter of the CRT for a copper coloured flat spring that goes between the CRT and the silvery metal chassis.
Here's a video with my measurements using DMM
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ixwfd6GJof0
Quote from: berskyboy on September 28, 2026, 06:43:04 PMQuote from: sigma7 on September 28, 2026, 05:51:19 PM1. Use the DMM to measure the resistance from the black paint (on the CRT) to the silvery metal chassis.
2. Look around the perimeter of the CRT for a copper coloured flat spring that goes between the CRT and the silvery metal chassis.
Here's a video with my measurements using DMM
A couple of hundred ohms seems plausible, depending on where you probe the conductive coating.
So that may mean the copper flat spring is in place somewhere, possible at the right side where the chassis is very close to the tube. If you can find it, please post a picture for reference by future troubleshooters.
Quote from: sigma7 on September 28, 2026, 04:57:24 PMAn upside down CRT might be intended as a warning sign. You've found quite a project!
Fun fact: rotating the CRT 180 degrees was a (recommended) regular maintenance item for Tektronix 4050-series vector storage display computers, intended to preserve the life of the storage CRT. I don't think many people actually did it, and for the 4054 and 4054A, you probably would have wanted an engine hoist to help out with the job.
Quote from: sigma7 on October 03, 2026, 04:21:21 PMCongrats and you're welcome. Thanks for your help testing this process!
Honestly Sigma7 you are a rock star!
I have another question for you when I tried to turn it on. There is no front bezel switch and there is two wires green and white. If I connect those would that by pass the front bezel switch?
front bezel:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/dv3w4s45edq6qx885x9ba/No-front-bezel.HEIC?rlkey=k8kkzbjpjgj1k7b9b6ghuykue&st=3kkh57q4&dl=0
two wires:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lgmzu07e6eve7dusb7v0t/White-Wire-goes-to-Red-Circle.jpeg?rlkey=0wxa7j8uncfm485z00tj1p9ht&st=r2oodyg8&dl=0
A long thread "Adventure in fixing a Lisa DataPower PSU" (https://lisalist2.com/index.php/topic,872.0.html) was split off from this thread at this point.
Quote from: berskyboy on October 03, 2026, 05:18:37 PMI have another question for you when I tried to turn it on. There is no front bezel switch and there is two wires green and white. If I connect those would that by pass the front bezel switch?
The green and white wires under the left side of the CRT go to the front panel safety interlock switch, which is missing in your picture (along with the plastic holder).
IIRC, connecting them would have the effect of preventing turn-on, and so you want them disconnected if there is no interlock switch to activate.
Quote from: sigma7 on October 03, 2026, 05:37:14 PMThe green and white wires under the left side of the CRT go to the front panel safety interlock switch, which is missing in your picture (along with the plastic holder).
IIRC, connecting them would have the effect of preventing turn-on, and so you want them disconnected if there is no interlock switch to activate.
OK so leaving it disconnected and making sure the back connector on the PSU is engaged (or the back cover is on), there should be life.
There isn't but I think I need to watch Adrian's videos and again and check the cable I made to the motherboard. I made a 60pin cable. Is there another way to test it by passing the on button/or soft switch?
Do you recommend doing a bench controlled testing like Adrian has done also?
Quote from: berskyboy on October 03, 2026, 06:07:37 PMOK so leaving it disconnected and making sure the back connector on the PSU is engaged (or the back cover is on), there should be life.
There isn't but I think I need to watch Adrian's videos and again and check the cable I made to the motherboard. I made a 60pin cable. Is there another way to test it by passing the on button/or soft switch?
Do you recommend doing a bench controlled testing like Adrian has done also?
Normally, a Lisa will power up if you plug it in with the I/O Board missing, so you could try that first. (It won't run normally of course, but there will be signs of life.)
I'm not sure I know what you mean by "bench controlled testing", but given the adventure with the PSU, I recommend working on this Lisa complete rather than working on it apart.
Perhaps you should start by posting pictures of what you have, including:
- The 60 pin cable you made, showing all connectors
- Which motherboard you have
- Which I/O Board you have
edit: I see now that a while ago it was established that you have a Lisa 1/5 motherboard and 2/10 I/O Board. We should still review what cable you've made.
Quote from: sigma7 on October 03, 2026, 06:37:43 PMNormally, a Lisa will power up if you plug it in with the I/O Board missing, so you could try that first. (It won't run normally of course, but there will be signs of life.)
I'm not sure I know what you mean by "bench controlled testing", but given the adventure with the PSU, I recommend working on this Lisa complete rather than working on it apart.
Perhaps you should start by posting pictures of what you have, including:
- The 60 pin cable you made, showing all connectors
Here's a few photos of the cable that I made following what Adrian's Basement videos showed
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/kdqdkmva3xj13tmifhd8z/IMG_3480.jpeg?rlkey=vswnxhj2fmnnebfebfy4c7uhw&st=q8wpzkxp&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jrlrna9nh1znw2jlrm0p1/IMG_3811.jpeg?rlkey=fxr1d0j6dhl8ct2tr6sqabhs3&st=ahcxnigj&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/djxyem64bql41xh7lrpd6/IMG_3812.jpeg?rlkey=gylliz4h4592g3tdtgdc08f4a&st=op7e0vmt&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/igjy89juib3ivkkbwaigy/IMG_3813.jpeg?rlkey=kvosr84z1su75pgahy54u4r73&st=xibt4bg6&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/e198f1gqd9p9f2cqbo4pp/IMG_3814.jpeg?rlkey=e3zv44p7270fn5xekb4ebox8d&st=dmqjmw0e&dl=0
EDIT: AI said this, which might be correct.
"Looking closely at your photos, you have made a classic, very easy-to-make mistake when crimping a new ribbon cable. Your IDC10 connector is mirrored / flipped 180 degrees backwards. Here is the exact visual proof from your photos and how to fix it so your Lisa can finally boot."
I was trying my best to line up things as Adriane had done it. But is this correct?
Quote from: berskyboy on October 03, 2026, 09:24:37 PMQuote from: sigma7 on October 03, 2026, 06:37:43 PMNormally, a Lisa will power up if you plug it in with the I/O Board missing, so you could try that first. (It won't run normally of course, but there will be signs of life.)
EDIT: AI said this, which might be correct.
"Looking closely at your photos, you have made a classic, very easy-to-make mistake when crimping a new ribbon cable. Your IDC10 connector is mirrored / flipped 180 degrees backwards. Here is the exact visual proof from your photos and how to fix it so your Lisa can finally boot."
I was trying my best to line up things as Adriane had done it. But is this correct?
Did you tell AI that it is a Lisa chassis cable? It seems to think it is a generic one.
That part of the cable looks ok to me, but perhaps you should use your DMM to confirm a couple of signals on the keyboard jack/power button board go to the correct pins on the motherboard's I/O Board socket.
Can't see other connectors on the ribbon cable, so might not be appropriate for the mixed Lisa 1/5 and 2/10 I/O Board configuration.
I do see a Widget power connector, so that makes it a 2/10 chassis originally FYI.
Does it power up with the I/O Board removed?
Quote from: sigma7 on October 04, 2026, 02:24:17 PMDid you tell AI that it is a Lisa chassis cable? It seems to think it is a generic one.
That part of the cable looks ok to me, but perhaps you should use your DMM to confirm a couple of signals on the keyboard jack/power button board go to the correct pins on the motherboard's I/O Board socket.
Can't see other connectors on the ribbon cable, so might not be appropriate for the mixed Lisa 1/5 and 2/10 I/O Board configuration.
I do see a Widget power connector, so that makes it a 2/10 chassis originally FYI.
Does it power up with the I/O Board removed?
Here's a photo of all the boards,
Lisa Back
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/i2hiofw1dsdzg2alg7jlu/Lisa-Back.HEIC?rlkey=i55sz6kk1pobml73a6cfv390p&st=t872wwhw&dl=0
Lisa CPU
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/viwa9olx10z2qgxr4iiwf/Lisa-CPUs.HEIC?rlkey=9h44vhi7gjiunx0orfbr64cfw&st=53mudtrl&dl=0
Lisa IO
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/h9twndkulcidvx4zpdsre/Lisa-IO.HEIC?rlkey=odw1zx17r9cciw07d2dl5qvu7&st=ki4v2aph&dl=0
Lisa Motherboard
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/zwfknardblj610p68vg6r/Lisa-Motherboard.HEIC?rlkey=56ic8stt9mb682hebqb3ka6iy&st=xatchreg&dl=0
Lisa RAM
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/6cg9ivzgkhxh25nmazhh8/Lisa-RAM.HEIC?rlkey=z8d5v82dnjnc5i4w3bh38f2dr&st=i99a7jif&dl=0
I tried to boot up without IO board still doesn't boot, no sounds. I will try and use my DMM next test, but not sure where to measure.
Quote from: berskyboy on October 04, 2026, 04:06:46 PMI tried to boot up without IO board still doesn't boot, no sounds. I will try and use my DMM next test, but not sure where to measure.
Without the I/O Board, there is nothing driving the speaker, and it can't access any peripherals, so don't expect sounds or boot.
Does anything at all happen when you plug it in with everything intact (in place) except the I/O Board missing?
Quote from: sigma7 on October 04, 2026, 04:22:16 PMWithout the I/O Board, there is nothing driving the speaker, and it can't access any peripherals, so don't expect sounds or boot.
Does anything at all happen when you plug it in with everything intact (in place) except the I/O Board missing?
No no sounds, I was trying to heard any clicking, the bulb on the Apple Button / Keyboard Board might be burnt out, should I instead try the 3 and 4th pins with a header and check with the DMM?
EDIT:
Also I wanted to know if this is my Hardware from the photos:
1. The Motherboard / Backplane
• What it is: Lisa 2/10 Motherboard (Part number 620-0108-C is clearly stamped in white ink).
• The Context: This explains the 8-pin or 10-pin confusion. A true 2/10 motherboard does not utilize the loose 9-pin hanging harness bundle for power injection like the Lisa 1/5 did. Instead, the Lisa 2/10 motherboard routes its power channels entirely through the edge slot architecture when the cards slide home.
2. The I/O Board
• What it is: Lisa 2/10 I/O Board (Part number 820-4039-A is visible on the left edge, and the COP421 chip sits on the right).
• The Match: This board is the native electrical partner to your 620-0108-C motherboard.
3. The CPU Card & Memory Boards
• What they are: A standard Lisa CPU board (820-4009-B) housing the purple/gold Motorola 68000, paired with two standard 512K RAM memory boards (820-4010-A).
not sure if AI got it right.
Quote from: berskyboy on October 04, 2026, 04:55:45 PMAlso I wanted to know if this is my Hardware from the photos:
1. The Motherboard / Backplane
• What it is: Lisa 2/10 Motherboard (Part number 620-0108-C is clearly stamped in white ink).
• The Context: This explains the 8-pin or 10-pin confusion. A true 2/10 motherboard does not utilize the loose 9-pin hanging harness bundle for power injection like the Lisa 1/5 did. Instead, the Lisa 2/10 motherboard routes its power channels entirely through the edge slot architecture when the cards slide home.
2. The I/O Board
• What it is: Lisa 2/10 I/O Board (Part number 820-4039-A is visible on the left edge, and the COP421 chip sits on the right).
• The Match: This board is the native electrical partner to your 620-0108-C motherboard.
3. The CPU Card & Memory Boards
• What they are: A standard Lisa CPU board (820-4009-B) housing the purple/gold Motorola 68000, paired with two standard 512K RAM memory boards (820-4010-A).
not sure if AI got it right.
No, surprise, AI did not get it right.
It was mostly right for CPU and Memory Boards...
CPU boards come in multiple versions, but for the most part they are all interchangeable. Only the oldest ones produced had the purple/gold ceramic 68000, most have plastic 68000s; since this is in a socket, it can be moved from board to board: this is not a useful identifier.
All the Apple 512K Memory boards are the same, unless it has been modified to be a 2MB board... the modifications are obvious when you see one.
For the I/O Board, it is indeed a 2/10 I/O Board, however the COP421 is not a way to distinguish Lisa I/O Boards as they all have one in the same place. AI made that up, as no-one has ever suggested such a thing. One primary identifier is the 2/10 I/O Board has the three large chips at the top left, the 1/5 I/O Board has two.
The Motherboard is not the 2/10 variety. The primary identifier is the number of DB-25 connectors on the back panel: The 2/10 has two, the 1/5 has three.
The 9 pin connector is for Widget power, it did not exist to provide power to the 1/5 motherboard. Again, AI made that up, as it is completely incorrect.
In the future, my corrections (if any) for AI errors are likely to be limited to "No". By all means use it for suggestions for what to research, but don't trust its advice.
Yes,
I agree and sort of dipping my toes in the AI pool to get suggestions but 💯 trust you a human over Ai. Again I'm so grateful for your help.
I will send more photos later tonight. I'm thinking maybe I need to put alcohol on all the connectors.
Got the PSU working now I need to focus on the connectors.
Glad to help.
There are numerous threads troubleshooting very similar symptoms in the past.
Hi good morning sigma7,
I am getting 5V on the first pin of the cable going to the power button and keyboard board.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/djxyem64bql41xh7lrpd6/IMG_3812.jpeg?rlkey=gylliz4h4592g3tdtgdc08f4a&st=7v274zc1&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/igjy89juib3ivkkbwaigy/IMG_3813.jpeg?rlkey=kvosr84z1su75pgahy54u4r73&st=99rl3vzd&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jrlrna9nh1znw2jlrm0p1/IMG_3811.jpeg?rlkey=fxr1d0j6dhl8ct2tr6sqabhs3&st=yblissze&dl=0
maybe my wiring of the cable is not correct? As this shows the 5V should be on pin 3/4?? or Pin 1/2?
https://lisalist2.com/index.php?topic=550.0
EDIT:
I also plugged in an Apple //c monitor via the RCA cable, no image or anything either.
Quote from: berskyboy on October 05, 2026, 09:38:59 AMI am getting 5V on the first pin of the cable going to the power button and keyboard board.
maybe my wiring of the cable is not correct? As this shows the 5V should be on pin 3/4?? or Pin 1/2?
The visible part of the cable looks ok, but since it hasn't been tested before, it may not be. If it was at all crooked or offset when the connectors were crimped, there may be hidden problems.
The pin numbers are ambiguous without more detail. The referenced post is saying the 4th position from the end on the top side of the 60 pin card edge connector is connected to the power switch. That's pin 54 of the card edge. J1 on the motherboard schematics show this. That would be the grey wire on your 8 conductor rainbow ribbon, which has the brown wire aligned with pin 60 of J1 (as far as I can tell).
The I/O Board has a pullup resistor on that signal to +5Standby, so the grey wire would show 5.5V or so if the Lisa is fully assembled and plugged in.
This picture of yours (https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jrlrna9nh1znw2jlrm0p1/IMG_3811.jpeg?rlkey=fxr1d0j6dhl8ct2tr6sqabhs3&st=yblissze&dl=0) shows hex standoffs threaded onto the studs above/below the slot in the 2/10 chassis that is aligned with expansion slot 3. The 2/10 chassis' I've seen have the threaded studs, but not the hex standoffs. I wonder if this indicates something was mounted there, or if these are serendipitous remnants... has anyone else seen these in place or something mounted there?
Quote from: sigma7 on October 04, 2026, 02:24:17 PMDid you tell AI that it is a Lisa chassis cable? It seems to think it is a generic one.
That part of the cable looks ok to me, but perhaps you should use your DMM to confirm a couple of signals on the keyboard jack/power button board go to the correct pins on the motherboard's I/O Board socket.
Can't see other connectors on the ribbon cable, so might not be appropriate for the mixed Lisa 1/5 and 2/10 I/O Board configuration.
I do see a Widget power connector, so that makes it a 2/10 chassis originally FYI.
Does it power up with the I/O Board removed?
this is a photo of the build from scratch 60 ribbon cable.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/8ok3ycftk4sxyqbb9eyvn/IMG_3477.jpeg?rlkey=9t4h66t8gs02yvpg4lbuins02&st=b46k32jh&dl=0
The 8 wires go to the left of the connector making the brown wire going to pin near 60, or 09 near the words "Motherboard 6210-010B"
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/qfphmvlnj347caxfqx1fh/IMG_3823.jpeg?rlkey=0us5b69hycwvsjjeemyt9bpjf&st=otplzq4r&dl=0
The system doesn't boot with I/O board removed.
EDIT: I have a classic Apple Lisa chassie
Response from AI:
The classic Apple Lisa 1 / Lisa 2/5 chassis setup explains exactly why the machine is behaving completely dead, even with the green and white wires bridged.
You have a mismatch between your chassis wiring and your power supply model. The classic Lisa chassis was built for the original 1.2A Apple-designed PSU (which uses a standard plastic wiring harness), but you are installing the heavy-duty 1.8A DataPower PSU (which was designed for the later Lisa 2/10 and Macintosh XL).
🚨 The Core Issue: The Backplane Disconnect
On a classic Lisa chassis, the power supply socket on the motherboard backplane does not line up with or map to the 1.8A DataPower knife connectors properly without a physical adapter kit.
1. The Interlock Confusion: On the 1.8A DataPower supply, the green and white wires are designed to route directly to a microswitch mounted on a completely different 2/10-style front frame assembly.
2. Missing Standby Path: Because the classic backplane motherboard expects the pinout of the 1.2A power supply, sliding the 1.8A brick into the back means the critical +5V Standby line and the Power-On command lines are physically landing on dead or completely mismatched tracks on your motherboard.
The power supply is sitting inside the case completely blind. It has AC power, but it cannot talk to your I/O board or your front panel cable because the motherboard traces don't connect them.
EDIT:
And AI keeps telling me the 10pin connector is 180degrees off.
🛠️ The Permanent Fix: Re-aligning Your Cable
You do not need to throw away your ribbon cable. Since you are using insulation-displacement (IDC) rainbow connectors (FC-10P M), you can open the plastic blocks and re-set the wire index layout without soldering:
1. Pop open the Connector Cap: Use a small flathead screwdriver or your fingernail to gently lift the tiny plastic clips on both sides of the black plastic connector plug. (Do this on the connector plug meant for the motherboard backplane end).
2. Flip the Connector Head: Pull the rainbow ribbon cable out of the metal piercing teeth. Rotate the black plastic plug 180 degrees horizontally, and lay the flat ribbon cable back down across the row of teeth.
3. Crimp it Back Down: Use a table vise or a pair of parallel pliers to squeeze the plastic cap firmly until it clicks completely locked. The internal teeth will pierce through the cable insulation in their new, perfectly mirrored positions.
Once flipped, Pin 1 (the dark/striped edge of your rainbow wire) will land precisely on the left side of the plug slots—aligning exactly with your handwritten note on the chassis (<- Pin 1) and completing the missing +5V Standby trace loop.
There is so much AI BS in there, I wouldn't know where to start.
I suggest using AI to find threads on the internet discussing "my lisa won't turn on", and then read the threads to find and understand troubleshooting steps.
AI's interpretation of them is worse than useless... it is causing damage.
Quote from: sigma7 on October 05, 2026, 05:08:51 PMI suggest using AI to find threads on the internet discussing "my lisa won't turn on", and then read the threads to find and understand troubleshooting steps.
AI's interpretation of them is worse than useless... it is causing damage.
Yup that's what I thought. So the real question is do I have a miss-matched hybrid Lisa that needs a converter board (because it has the Widget Drive and Floppy Drive which I will not connect because of the voltage difference).
Or is there issues with the rainbow connector I created? What's interesting to me is that I measure 5.5V on pin 1 to pin 2 and 0.02 V on the other pins. So it seems power is making it from the PSU, to the cable assembly, into the motherboard, then back our the rainbow cable to the button to giving 5.5V.
Quote from: berskyboy on October 05, 2026, 05:26:57 PMI have a miss-matched hybrid Lisa
Your AI queries and at least two humans in this thread agree on that.
QuoteWhat's interesting to me is that I measure 5.5V on pin 1 to pin 2 and 0.02 V on the other pins. So it seems power is making it from the PSU, to the cable assembly, into the motherboard, then back our the rainbow cable to the button to giving 5.5V.
This is normal when the PSU is not turned on. You see +5Standby, which is always on, and powers the circuitry that is running all the time, such as the RTC and the soft-power control.
Once the PSU is activated/running, then +5 will appear on two more pins of that 8 conductor cable.
So I guess I would look for threads related to the problem "My Lisa won't turn on" for suggestions on how to troubleshoot this.
Quote from: sigma7 on October 05, 2026, 06:41:33 PMOnce the PSU is activated/running, then +5 will appear on two more pins of that 8 conductor cable.
So I guess I would look for threads related to the problem "My Lisa won't turn on" for suggestions on how to troubleshoot this.
Ok sounds good. I will head down that path. Again, I want to thank you 100% for helping me with the PSU. I will post in this forum what I found out and some of the troubleshooting I have/will do.
Quote from: berskyboy on October 05, 2026, 06:56:20 PMAgain, I want to thank you 100% for helping me with the PSU. I will post in this forum what I found out and some of the troubleshooting I have/will do.
You're welcome; thank you too for working through it, there aren't any good examples of that process as far as I know.
Yes, please come back with what you've figured out as that will help someone else.
I don't recall if the green & grey wires for the front safety interlock need to be connected or disconnected to satisfy the PSU, so you could try each one if someone else doesn't chime in with the required configuration.
Quote from: sigma7 on October 05, 2026, 07:42:38 PMI don't recall if the green & grey wires for the front safety interlock need to be connected or disconnected to satisfy the PSU, so you could try each one if someone else doesn't chime in with the required configuration.
They should be connected.
Quote from: AlexTheCat123 on October 05, 2026, 07:45:45 PMThey should be connected.
Hi Alex, thanks for that, I've twist-tied them together and when I plug the power cord into the PSU, I hear a faint "click", then nothing on the screen or other sounds. If I un-plug it and do that same thing, a faint "click". So I'm thinking maybe it starts, then shuts down? The PSU has been re-built and tested with @sigma7's wonderful help.
I took out the IO card same behaviour. I will try a few others things, but wanted to update the forum on that status.
I'm getting VIDEO and beeps!!! Well from an external video.
So I'm thinking the Apple Lisa Video card has issues, and/or the 12in tube. Here's the video
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/T7QZOB-Ilxc
EDIT:
The video board was missing and I bought it one of eBay. I didn't bench test or recap it. (I've ordered the caps from DijiKey and Amazon and will recap the Video board)
The CRT was mounted upside down when I got it from the auction, maybe symbolizing a dead 12in CRT?
EDIT2: I also hooked-up the mouse and keyboard. I can see the mouse moving, (the screen is not the right frequency) but I can see that it moves, how do I test the keyboard?
I am certain that the Apple monitor used in the video is not capable of properly rendering the Lisa video signal. Only 2 monitor models can render it (none are made by Apple).
The Lisa seems to be turning on and showing the startup screen. Nice.
Turn the pots on the back on the power supply, maybe the contrast is set to it's lowest? If not, you will need to troubleshoot the analog video card on the Lisa. Warning, again: the high voltages on it and on the tube can kill you.
That's a very nice looking Lisa, with no yellowing on the plastics. Congrats!
Yeah, that's exactly what you should expect to see on that monitor, given that it's not capable of syncing to the Lisa's video signal. This confirms that everything in your card cage is at least mostly working.
You're getting low-high-high beeps though, which means that you have a RAM error. One of the memory chips on one of the two RAM boards probably went bad, or a board could also just be making a bad connection with its slot. First try reseating both boards, but if that doesn't fix the problem, then you'll need to go into Service Mode and follow the instructions at this link to figure out which chip is bad. But obviously you can't do that until the video board is fixed!
https://lisafaq.sunder.net/single.html#lisafaq-hw-mem_error
To test the keyboard, try pressing Apple-S (which enters Service Mode) after the error beeps. You should see the screen change rather significantly. If you haven't replaced the foam and foil pads inside your keyboard yet, then it is very unlikely to work until you do that.
Congrats on the excellent progress!
Quote from: AlexTheCat123 on October 06, 2026, 04:42:16 PMTo test the keyboard, try pressing Apple-S (which enters Service Mode) after the error beeps. You should see the screen change rather significantly. If you haven't replaced the foam and foil pads inside your keyboard yet, then it is very unlikely to work until you do that.
Keyboard: I tried that and yes it works, I saw a white screen (can't read it, but it changed), as I have already bought the capacitor foils and repaired the keyboard.
CRT: I turned the pots on the back of the PSU still black screen, and I don't hear the noise a CRT makes when they start up. I hope to get the capacitors tomorrow or the next day, and I will recap the video board.
UPDATE: I recapped the Video Board, and reflowed a bunch of the points.
I put it back together and still no internal video. I don't even hear the CRT at all, and there is no glow. I there a way to test the Video Board? I got it of eBay, and when I got the Lisa the CRT was mounted "up-side down", maybe meaning, it's bad.
Are there any donor CRTs suggestions? Where would I look (12inch monochrome CRT?)
another option since the external video is working, I could get a 12in LCD and get an RCA to HDMI kit and bypass the CRT Video all together. (does that cheapen it?)
EDIT: I could buy the RGBtoHDMI (available from indie builders on Tindie or TexElec).
I'm ready to follow some troubleshooting tests if you point me in the right location. AI ... well, dealing with CRT high volts, I don't wanna take advice from it for this.
Greetings,
I just performed the crt swap with an Atari SM124.
Works great but you'll need the yoke from your Lisa crt. It is a pretty straightforward swap, assuming your yoke is good, but all the high voltage warnings apply so read and rehearse before you attempt. Congrats on the work so far. It's been fun to follow along!
Quote from: mst3k on October 07, 2026, 10:07:12 PMI just performed the crt swap with an Atari SM124.
Works great but you'll need the yoke from your Lisa crt. It is a pretty straightforward swap, assuming your yoke is good, but all the high voltage warnings apply so read and rehearse before you attempt. Congrats on the work so far. It's been fun to follow along!
I'm game to try that, but... where do you find that CRT? I thought of Good Will or Thrift stores, anywhere else? Of course Facebook and eBay.
Quite a few options on eBay in the $100-150 USD range.
Quote from: mst3k on October 07, 2026, 10:07:12 PMI just performed the crt swap with an Atari SM124
... but all the high voltage warnings apply
Does the Atari's CRT have the same grounding spring as the stock Lisa CRT (at the side of the mounting frame), or does it use the braided wire style of grounding the dag coating?
If the latter, was it difficult to move it over to the Lisa?
Quote from: berskyboy on October 07, 2026, 06:39:54 PMAre there any donor CRTs suggestions? Where would I look (12inch monochrome CRT?)
Any suggestions for isolating whether the trouble is in the CRT itself, Video Board, Flyback, or wiring? Or perhaps this is too dangerous an expedition for casual discussion?
Quotereflowed a bunch
For future readers:
Because the Lisa was manufactured with tin-lead solder:
- it does not suffer the issues related to early lead-free solder devices.
- wash your hands after handling Lisa circuit boards and, if you must, dispose of them properly. (Better still: offer as parts to other Lisa owners for salvage.)
Reflowing a joint is very rarely a solution for problems in a Lisa, and may hide troubleshooting clues to overheating components and cause substantial damage that makes a repair more difficult. It is much better to track down the specific location/cause of a problem first.
Only reflow a solder joint in a Lisa if it is visibly or measurably suspect. Carefully check the badly soldered component/circuit to see if/why it was overheating and if it needs replacement. Ensure the suspect joint is first desoldered to remove contamination and clean off corrosion that may have contributed to that rare bad joint. Re-make the joint with fresh solder and adequate heat (power pins require a lot of heat in the Lisa). Clean and inspect to ensure no bridges were created and confirm the new joint is good.
Quote from: ried on October 07, 2026, 11:58:32 PMQuite a few options on eBay in the $100-150 USD range.
I picked mine up on eBay for $80 plus shipping and tax. It was sold as 'untested' (eBay code for not working) but, after a bit of fiddling, worked great.
Quote from: sigma7 on October 08, 2026, 12:23:15 AMDoes the Atari's CRT have the same grounding spring as the stock Lisa CRT (at the side of the mounting frame), or does it use the braided wire style of grounding the dag coating?
If the latter, was it difficult to move it over to the Lisa?
There are different versions of the SM124, mostly case design I think, but the one I got had a large, copper grounding spring that was secured with the lower right mounting screw. I simply moved it over with the CRT from the SM124 and secured it the same way.
Also, I'm just curious, have you tried adjusting the brightness with the control pot on the video board? After convincing myself one of my Lisa's video circuitry was dead, I adjusted the inside pot and found that someone had essentially turned it off. It's the first pot on the top left of the board. If you haven't tried it, be careful since the Lisa must be on to see adjustments and you're diving into the danger zone. I use a plastic screwdriver with a ceramic tip, move real slow, and take my time avoiding the CRT and yoke. Just a thought if you haven't tried it.
When you said 'no glow' I thought you meant at the neck of the CRT, but you have the top on the Lisa so maybe you meant 'no glow' on the face of the CRT?
The first commandment of electronics troubleshooting if I understand correctly is: "thou shalt always check voltages". The CRT heater is really simple: it's wired to +12V and ground and is always on; it's basically a light bulb. If there's no glow at the CRT neck, I would look to see if the +12V supply is working.
The heater supply is the brown wire going to the CRT socket, but I wouldn't take a measurement there as there are some high voltages going to the CRT socket as well. What I'd probably do, based on the schematics here (https://lisaem.sunder.net/LisaSchem/VideoBoard.gif), is solder a flying lead or attach a probe clip to one of the legs of L4, then hook the lead up to a multimeter so that I could take the measurement in a hands-off way.
While preparing for this measurement, I'd probably also check for continuity across L4 and L5. If either of them is open, then there's the heater problem.
But assuming there's continuity: if you have +12V at L4 and no heater glow, then the CRT does start to look fishy. Check continuity across CRT pins 3 and 4 (maybe something to do first, actually). If no continuity, the CRT is bad; replace it. If you have continuity, then maybe the socket has a problem.
Quote from: stepleton on October 08, 2026, 03:49:22 AMCheck continuity across CRT pins 3 and 4 (maybe something to do first, actually). If no continuity, the CRT is bad; replace it. If you have continuity, then maybe the socket has a problem.
So would this be a test on the neck of the CRT
( Bare Glass CRT Neck Pins )
[ GAP ]
(1) (7)
(2) (6)
(3) (5)
(4) [ ]
| |
v v
[ Red Probe ] [ Black Probe ]
Also when you connect the Video Board to the CRT what is the orientation?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ek8ymsu1i9ccosf6w0gqt/IMG_3715.jpeg?rlkey=buyr9el2e55oee8u2sezllce6&st=ez8pfxmg&dl=0
what should the space be on the top? or is pin 5 on top?
Quote from: berskyboy on October 08, 2026, 10:16:53 AMAlso when you connect the Video Board to the CRT what is the orientation?
Unless I am missing something you're asking here, the connector from the video board to the CRT neck can only go on one way.
Quote from: mst3k on October 08, 2026, 10:28:50 AMUnless I am missing something your asking here, the connector from the video board to the CRT neck can only go on one way.
Mine didn't have the video board, and I looked at the pins of the yoke and tried to line them up. I assumed that, but wanted to check, another post said, I might have to use a needle to fish out the connector in the Apple Lisa video connector, maybe they recess in? (the metal leafs?)
this is a photo of it connected
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/8blnumuto0u1s1iwkqlxx/IMG_3857.jpeg?rlkey=vjehif9eyimxlw6jhlng526jq&st=ata1b82a&dl=0
Quote from: berskyboy on October 08, 2026, 10:37:12 AMmaybe they recess in? (the metal leafs?)
Could be, I don't know what that references.
But, I do know, with your level of determination, that Lisa will be up and running soon!
Quote from: berskyboy on October 08, 2026, 10:37:12 AMassumed that, but wanted to check, another post said, I might have to use a needle to fish out the connector in the Apple Lisa video connector, maybe they recess in?
There's nothing to fish out. That video board connector just press fits onto the CRT neck. Just make sure it's fully seated onto the pins, gently. It's keyed, so as
mst3k wrote, it only fits on one way.
Quote from: ried on October 08, 2026, 10:59:12 AMThere's nothing to fish out. That video board connector just press fits onto the CRT neck. Just make sure it's fully seated onto the pins, gently. It's keyed, so as mst3k wrote, it only fits on one way.
So here's a test of the pins 3 and 4, is that correct?
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/m_OoQ5IbFfQ
Not sure if that's directed at me? I don't have any thoughts on checking continuity inside the CRT.
Quote from: stepleton on October 08, 2026, 03:49:22 AMBut assuming there's continuity: if you have +12V at L4 and no heater glow, then the CRT does start to look fishy. Check continuity across CRT pins 3 and 4 (maybe something to do first, actually). If no continuity, the CRT is bad; replace it. If you have continuity, then maybe the socket has a problem.
Hi Ried, sorry it was for Stapleton, but I think since my CRT has a little chip in it, is not keyed properly. I look at this on eBay and wonder if I'm not putting the yoke connector on properly?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/d01o8eh32hgvpnkw55jyf/Screenshot-2026-10-08-at-9.26.26-AM.png?rlkey=63nuhn9zo5sbk3ich7dt35ba9&st=ldz8us04&dl=0
UPDATE: There is a glow. I had the pins plugged in incorrectly. The white wire should correspond to the top pin.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/H2dfzStSmYY
EDIT: I remember Adrian measuring the transistor on the Apple Lisa Video board, this might be a good test to do?
Locate the large Horizontal Output Transistor (typically bolted onto a metal heatsink nearby on the video/analog assembly).
1. Flip your multimeter to Diode Test Mode (or low Ohms resistance).
2. Measure across the pins of the transistor (Collector to Emitter, and Base to Collector).
3. If your meter beeps continuously or shows a dead 0 Ohms connection in both directions, the transistor is shorted out and must be replaced. A shorted transistor stops the flyback from firing up.
ALSO
How would I test the Flyback Transformer? (very carefully I'm sure). If the CRT is dead, I have reached out to Facebook Marketplace to see if the Atari SM124 donor CRT is available.
EDIT: I took out the Lisa Video Board and wanted to test the regulator like Adriane did
https://youtu.be/HMEDMvb4IjM?si=zQco1_2-Bgwo52a8&t=1161
I tested Q5 and U1 in the video
I'm so ignorant on what the values should be sorry, I don't really read schematics that well.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/LmVrrIFaQcQ
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xzKdgSJaWiE
I know what we think about AI, but it said this... (calling all humans, did AI get it right, or way off?). Adrian did replace his U1 regulator, so I'm think I'm not 100% off base here.
🚨 The Major Discovery: U1 is Dead
In your short video titled U1 126kohms, you measured the resistance across the legs of U1 and got 126 kΩ (126,000 ohms) (0:11).
• The Component Type: U1 is a 7824 Linear Voltage Regulator (exactly like the one Adrian troubleshoots and replaces in his video). It is responsible for dropping the incoming 33V power rail down to a clean, regulated 24V/28V to fuel the high-voltage flyback transformer.
• The Fault: A healthy 7824 voltage regulator out-of-circuit or in a normal circuit path should read in the Mega-ohms (MΩ) across its input, output, and ground reference pins (just as Adrian shows on his meter). A reading of 126 kΩ means U1 has suffered an internal breakdown and is partially shorted out.
• The Consequence: Because U1 is damaged, it is choking out the master voltage rail before it can reach the horizontal deflection circuits. Your neck filament glows because it pulls from a separate lower loop, but the high-voltage flyback transformer is getting completely starved of power by this broken regulator.
Quote from: berskyboy on October 08, 2026, 12:12:22 PMdid AI get it right
No. For example, the schematic shows a 1.2K resistor and 200 ohm trimmer from the output to the ground terminal. That resistance will never be more than 1.4K. Perhaps that's not what AI considers "a normal circuit".
UPDATE:
I bought and replaced the U1 L7824CV (the previous values were in K Ohms, the new part measured M Ohms.) Still not getting static or a hum from flyback. The tube lights up orange, and the external video works, no internal CRT at all. So I will replace Q5 with BU406 on the video board and try again. (in two weeks when the BU406 transistor comes)
SUCCESS!!!!!
I found another post that talked about similar issues as mine here:
https://forum.vcfed.org/index.php?threads/lisa-video-fault.1244688/
Turns out the version of the Apple Lisa Video board had the problematic L3. The new schematics don't have this one. I took it out and VOILA Internal Video!!
Here's the original schematic
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/n1riu1172shqnd440vyr2/Orignila-Video-Board.png?rlkey=2tgvg296h2xi2vrguwyooxsy2&st=tqspyyte&dl=0
Here's the one I was working with
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ppmwnb9ssj04kpvkugbph/VideoBoard.gif?rlkey=638mnegfwaxsft6pylc5af656&st=33kgl8wj&dl=0
and YouTube video to celebrate!!! Crack the champaign. (errr I still have to deal with the memory errors and install the XProfile), OR proceed to try and get the HDD or FDD running
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ozIkK0EcnUc
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/d4xqg2zsrw6n0kidnlb5f/IMG_3940.jpeg?rlkey=3di3hpn2xt0otry65k4v61y68&st=it9kjubn&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lnjauvyr0wrvkq9d4yamr/IMG_3938.jpeg?rlkey=tx8b9z8ruq1fv56r6bej52z9c&st=779avtgb&dl=0
Quote from: berskyboy on October 10, 2026, 05:55:08 PMSUCCESS!!!!!
https://forum.vcfed.org/index.php?threads/lisa-video-fault.1244688/
Congrats! That's an interesting thread at vcfed.
The final version (as far as we know) of the Lisa Video Board Schematic is Rev J (https://lisalist2.com/index.php/topic,434.msg3191.html#msg3191):
Congratulations! That's a major step.
Congrats! Is there a way to check whether L3 has failed somehow? I'm not sure what to measure without slightly unusual equipment; it's an inductor, so you would expect a continuity measurement to be a dead short even with the part in working order.
Quote from: stepleton on October 11, 2026, 07:08:58 AMIs there a way to check whether L3 has failed somehow?
L3 can just be deleted from the Lisa Video Board as a non-critical (or inconsequential) part, so that's a simple way to determine if it is causing a problem.
However I suspect your question is less about fixing video boards and more about troubleshooting techniques...
I'd also like to know the technique if something other than an open circuit failure can be figured out with simple equipment. Not having a good answer to how this could be done, some speculative brainstorming:
I presume the inductance value will be a bit low, but perhaps not by enough to distinguish it from a good part with an inexpensive LCR meter.
There is a scope trace in the vcfed thread and an expert analysis response that indicates the energy storage is suspect, but I expect other parts in the circuit could cause a very similar symptom.
I have used an LCR meter that reports inductor "rings" - measured from decaying oscillations when its stimulus is stopped. I expect it is reliable when comparing good and bad parts, but it seems to be a somewhat arbitrary measurement if you don't have a good part to compare.
There are low cost vector analyzer products that I'm guessing could help, but those are even less commonly useful than an LCR meter.
I wonder if applying a specific DC current and measuring the lifting capability of the resulting electromagnet would be indicative.
For most measurements, it seems a good part to compare seems necessary, or at least a published reference. Is there any point in my measuring a good L3 for future reference?
Quote from: sigma7 on October 11, 2026, 06:57:38 PMIs there any point in my measuring a good L3 for future reference?
I suppose there isn't a pressing one, and perhaps it's mainly my curiosity. We know L3 is bad, but since deleting it is fine, that means that it can't have failed open. I suppose coils could have shorted? I'm wondering what could have gone wrong. Perhaps knowing would be useful somehow, or at least interesting.