LisaList2

It could also be the part itself...

I agree.  The CPU card is common to all variations of the Lisa.  They are very dependable and even in earlier battery damaged systems the CPU card is rarely effected.  Also being located inside the card cage it does not easily get physically damaged.  I am not saying the price is wrong, you just need to wait for someone who needs one..

It could also be the part itself... I've not heard of CPU bards breaking very often. I/O boards are of course a different story.

I have my very clean, tested and working CPU board listed in the Marketplace here and on facebook for $425 which includes shipping.

I also put it on fleabay for $525obo (lots of fees on the bay).

So far no interest. I am was wondering if I have it priced too high (its what I paid for it) or if there is just a long sales cycle on Lisa parts?

I've been fighting issues with two power supplies on two of my Profile external hard drives. I would consider myself as low-to-medium savvy when it comes to electronics, and I'm hitting my head trying to solve these problems. I might ask for help at some point here, but out of curiosity, I started to look for a modern replacement to these power supplies (ASTEC Models AA11770A and AA11771). Turns out that you can buy a new one (Model PT-65B) for ~$20. It's a 65W, +5, +12,-12V PS which should do the trick I think. I checked that both my controller card and HDD work, and it should be doable to insert this smallish PS in the existing enclosure. Has anyone tried a complete PS swap ? Do you think it would affect the Profile resale value negatively ?

Thanks in advance

Good find, I'm interested to see it in action - it looks like my first thought was correct, this is a Tektronics 4010/4050 graphics terminal emulator program that appears to have gotten ported over to the Mac later in life: https://books.google.com/books?id=zC4EAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA46&dq=%22tekalike%22+mesa+graphics&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwib8fPSnt-MAxXkRTABHZemF_wQ6AF6BAgIEAM#v=onepage&q=%22tekalike%22%20mesa%20graphics&f=false


I also found some snippets on Google Books implying that Tekalike did actually ship for Lisa... the dealer pamphlet also says Mesa Graphics was writing software for Lisa in 1983, think this is what they were writing? http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/apple/lisa/marketing/Lisa_Dealer_Presentation_1983.pdf

Just added DC42 (BLU 0.9) Twiggy disk images for all three disks to the files section: https://lisalist2.com/index.php/topic,629.0.html

This is a problem from a Lisa 2/5 that dates back from 2023, that I had never solved, and that I put on the backburner for a while. See here

https://lisalist2.com/index.php/topic,423.0.html

The video board is actually from a different system (a 2/10), and I use the "bad" system as my work horse. Now that the video board works, I'll get back to working on my 2/5.

What I/O board ROM version is 9F (H/9F in your pic)? Don't think I've come across that one before...

Edit: I wonder if that has something to do with your I/O board error during POST.

Edit 2: I/O board error 57 seems to be related to the disk controller and / or your Lisa Lite adapter board in a 2/5, per https://lisafaq.sunder.net/lisafaq-hw-rom_error_codes.html

Never mind, I traced a short that I made on the board while reflowing the contacts. Looks like I've got everything under control now. So in the end, it was resistor R28 that got fried in the process of recapping C18. It's only my second resistor problem in my 10+ years of Mac and Lisa tinkering !

Progress ! I usually don't check resistors that do not look burnt, but becoming desperate, I did. One of the resistors feeding TDA1170 (R28) showed 470 kOhms when it should be only 56k. After a quick swap, I get a much better image (below). R28 is actually next to C18 on the board, and it's possible that it got a bit too hot when I soldered C18, leading to failure.

The image is still squashed a bit, clearly exhibiting a vertical linearity issue. I'm surprised to see a second problem, but I'm not complaining 

Thanks @AlexTheCat123. I desoldered the Vlin pot but it measures perfectly. I did not check the other ones but they all seem to respond normally to tuning. Plus the video is actually no longer jumpy.

I saw somewhere that you have experienced issues with the vertical deflection controller TDA1170N, and replaced a few. Did you ever see any of these symptoms ? And is it a difficult/tricky job to do ?