I won a local auction for an Apple Lisa!!!

[sigma7]

1. I also wanted to know how to ground the white wire

2. The small green and white wire seem to be grounds?

The white wire from the tube socket does go to the spade connector on the metal chassis as in your picture.

The two thin green and white wires go to the front panel safety interlock switch (near the bottom left corner of the CRT). Many people just disable the switch, so that may be why your wires are cut.

[berskyboy]

The white wire from the tube socket does go to the spade connector on the metal chassis as in your picture.

so the white wire goes to the read circle?
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lgmzu07e6eve7dusb7v0t/White-Wire-goes-to-Red-Circle.jpeg?rlkey=0wxa7j8uncfm485z00tj1p9ht&st=t4yvxw57&dl=0

Also, do I need to worry about this? (I asked AI about the picture)

⚠️ Crucial Step: Where is the CRT Aquadag Ground Strap?
Because that white wire goes to the neck socket, you must verify the main CRT static grounding strap is still present.
- Look for a bare, uninsulated braided metal wire or a thin tension spring stretched tightly across the black matte coating (aquadag) on the wide, curved part of the glass funnel.
- This braided strap must connect to a grounding point on one of the four metal corner mounting ears of the CRT frame.

Double-check that the bare metal grounding strap is contacting the black glass coating before you reinstall the main plastic outer housing.

[TorZidan]

CRT televisions and monitors can cause serious injury or death, even when unplugged for days, weeks, or months. Read and follow all precautions before opening any CRT device.

LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGE

The anode (high-voltage) circuit can hold 20,000-30,000+ volts on the tube's second anode, the suction-cup connector on the glass.
Capacitors, including the tube itself, can retain a dangerous charge long after power is removed.
Flyback transformers and the associated circuitry can also deliver painful or dangerous shocks.

IMPLOSION HAZARD

The glass envelope is under vacuum and can implode violently if cracked, scratched, or struck.
Flying glass can cause severe lacerations and eye injuries.
Never carry a tube by its neck. Never apply pressure to the neck or the neck board.
Wear safety glasses or a face shield at all times.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Unplug the device from mains power.
Work only if you are trained or experienced with high-voltage electronics. If you are not, do not open the case.
Never work alone. Have someone nearby who can call for help and knows CPR.
Keep one hand in your pocket or behind your back when probing live circuits, to avoid a path across your chest and heart.
Remove jewelry and metal accessories.
Work on a dry, non-conductive surface. Keep liquids away from the work area.

DISCHARGING

Discharge the anode only with a properly insulated, high-voltage discharge tool and a known-good ground connection, following the correct procedure for your specific device.
Never use a bare screwdriver or improvised tool. This can damage components and injure you.
Do not assume the tube is discharged. Verify with an appropriate high-voltage probe.
Recharging can occur after discharge (dielectric absorption), so re-check before touching.

[berskyboy]

CRT televisions and monitors can cause serious injury or death, even when unplugged for days, weeks, or months. Read and follow all precautions before opening any CRT device.

hi TorZidan, yup it came unplugged and the CRT was even upside down.  I'm still working bench testing the PSU.  So no power as of yet.  And could have been for a decade or so , but yes I made a screwdriver with an alligator clip and have discharged few vintage CRTs (NeXT Monitor, Mac SE). 

My question was regarding what AI said, and I'm wondering if I'm missing any parts.

https://youtube.com/shorts/K4iUFtFl23A

[sigma7]

I made a screwdriver with an alligator clip and have discharged few vintage CRTs (NeXT Monitor, Mac SE). 

For the benefit of others, that would be a "sufficiently insulated" screwdriver, as a few KV will go through the otherwise insulating handle of many screwdrivers. This kind of non-obvious detail is why the warning specifies "Work only if you are trained or experienced with high-voltage electronics." Working around the CRT is dangerous: proceed at your own risk!

Also, the alligator clip is typically wired through a high value resistor so the current surge is limited.

Note that the high voltage of the CRT stinger will damage/destroy a DMM unless a working high voltage probe is used properly. According to the video board schematic, the Lisa CRT HV is 13KV (and may be higher if there is a fault in the circuitry). DMMs are typically limited to 1KV, some much less.

the CRT was even upside down.

An upside down CRT might be intended as a warning sign. You've found quite a project!

My question was regarding what AI said

It is good you asked. It looks like AI has led you astray a couple of times already, so we should all take its responses as "concepts to investigate" rather than "directions to follow" as worded.

The black coating/paint on the CRT should have a low resistance to the chassis. This connection is made (on some CRTs at least) via a copper wide spring loop at one side of the CRT. (Different from what AI said it would be)

If the spring isn't there, and you don't have a low resistance from the chassis to the dag coating, then indeed some other connection is needed.

and I'm wondering if I'm missing any parts

In your video, I see a Widget hard drive (above the floppy drive), which if still working, you probably don't want to use since a modern emulator will give better performance, be more convenient, and preserve what life is left (if any) in the Widget.

The Widget does not have a power or data cable connected. What are the cables in that area that are not connected?

Given the other oddities, I wonder if you have a full wiring harness... check if there is a card edge connector for the PSU to plug into, another for the motherboard to plug into, and another for the video card to plug into. There should also be a connector plugged into the flyback transformer, the other ends of the thin green and white wires, and wires going to the speaker behind the front panel safety interlock switch. And finally, another (non-ribbon cable) connector in the drive cage area (there are two different types, depending on the type of wiring harness).

You may/probably need to clean and re-lubricate the 400K Sony drive if you wish to use it.