Re: Using a US Lisa in the UK -- redux!

Hi Tom,

the first issue and most important is: There are PSUs, which you can simply change from 110V to 220V by setting a kind of jumper inside the PSU. It's a short (mostly red or grey) cable approx 3 cm length with two "cable lugs" (Ihope it's the correct word for that what I mean) which are sticked over the two connectors, which are soldered on top of the board and marked with 220V. Switch them from 110V to 220V. There will be one of this cables left, because you only need one of the two from the 110V version.
This is availlable on more than 95% of all Lisa PSUs. But if you are owner of a Lisa 1 or a refurbished Lisa 1, which is now a Lisa 2 or Mac XL, there could probably mounted a very old PSU, which could not switched from 110V to 220V so easily. In this case you have to do some modifications, which are not so easy. You have to be shure, what you do. I want to express, that you have to have knowledge about switching power supplies. If you haven't, I would not recomend transfering a 110V to a 220V supply. I may cause more damage, than you can imagine. By the way: It's dangerous and could be with risk of life. Be aware of that! Don't manipulate allone, please ask a friend or another person, which could call the emergency in case of something happens!!! No joke, guys. Better give that to a guy who is familiar in electrinics or better a specialist of power-supplies lika a "old-school" radio or tv-mechanic.

A Lisa isn't made for those experimental works. In this case I would strongly recommend that you buy a 230V to 115V transformer and connect your Lisa with it.

As I am a person, which preserves historical computers in their original state, I would also never tinker on them, if there is no need for that. Such a deteriorated piece of history is afterwards much less worth, than you probably can imagine, although it will then work with a 230V supply.

By the way. Years ago I repaired a lot of Lisa PSUs, which were sent to me by several persons here in europe. I remember a guy in polland, one in great britain, one in the netherlands, two here in germany, which all sent a non-working Lisa PSU. I all fixed them. The best one sent 3 PSUs to me, only one of them could be repaired without changing hard to find parts like the coil, but this guy also tried to fix a problem previously by himself, without really knowing what he does.
I hope he won't read this lines now :-)
But if he or they do nevertheless, don't mind guys. I don't indict you all, I even don't write your names, because you all read this post, I believe.
Well, decide yourself, what you'll do Tom. Meanwhile I'll pray it will work and that you don't execute an shoot another rare historical computer straight into Apple-heaven.

Greetings: Tom from Bavaria, the center of Europe, the country with the Alps, the marvellous castles of Koenig Ludwig and last but not least, the original Octoberfest in Munich

Am 11.12.2015 um 01:25 schrieb Tom Stepleton:

> Hi everyone,
>
> After a long recess I'm looking forward to getting my US Lisas
> working here in London. (I'll spare you the story of getting them
> here---what a hassle!)
>
> This isn't the first time someone's had to deal with this---here's
> an older conversation:
>
> https://groups.google.com/d/msg/lisalist/QgkPHNrYCdA/zJzq2xFKmcEJ
>
> The main thing is to change some jumper wires in the Lisa PSU (and
> since the ProFile service manual on Bitsavers calls the ProFile PSU
> 120/240v switchable, probably the same in the ProFile).
>
> However, the posts on that thread talk about changing the
> decoupling capacitors as well. I am guessing that the reason for
> the warnings might be that the higher mains voltage in Europe are
> harder on old capacitors than the 120v supplied in the States. Is
> this correct?
>
> Replacing old caps is probably something that would be to do
> anyway---indeed, I've posted about it several times but never
> worked up the gumption to get it done. Can anyone identify which
> capacitors are the decoupling caps that are most important to
> replace? I'll need to know for both the 1.2A and 1.8A PSUs, as well
> as the ProFile PSU.
>
> So, if anyone's done this recently and has a BOM, that would be
> fantastic!
>
> With that done, once I find the UK equivalent of digi-key I'll be
> all set. I guess it might be digi-key...
>
> Thanks all,
> --Tom
>
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