If you like, you can make a CRT discharging tool from a flat screwdriver,
some wire, alligator clips, and a big resister. Here's a link for some info
on discharging high voltages:
http://www.eio.com/repairfaq/REPAIR/F_captest.html#CAPTEST_008
Also, couldn't hurt to check the voltages coming from the power supply. Do you have the Sun DIY guide?
Oh, and while I've got the list's attention :) Does anyone have a listing of the focusing rings on the back of the tube? As in what each one does? I actually found a NOS CRT on ebay last year, and it needs a bit of adjustment.
-Jason
> Be very careful when working on the video side of the Lisa - if you've
> never worked inside a TV, stay away, it's very dangerous. (working inside
> a Lisa is a bit easier than inside a TV though) - Standard warnings
> apply - You could be killed or shocked, etc. (standard precautions apply,
> don't sue me if you get shocked, you were warned, these technical
> procedures are provided for entertainment purposes, kids, don't try this
> at home, etc.)
>
> That said, should you wish to continue, I'd highly suggest unplugging the
> Lisa from power for a few days to discharge whatever is stored up in the
> capacitors before attempting such work. I'd also remove all the cables
> from the Lisa such as mouse, keyboard, connections to a Profile hard
> drive, etc.
>
> Tricks to prevent yourself from completing a circuit, such as working with
> one hand behind your back are useful here, so you don't electrocute
> yourself. An static wrist strap might not be a good idea as it will help
> complete a circuit, thus shocking you, so as a precaution to the sensitive
> electronics inside the Lisa, don't touch any of the boards other than the
> video board.
> Wearing rubber heeled shoes for insulation is a great idea. There is also
> a small danger of X-Rays from the tube, but since you're not going to stay
> close to the tube too long, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
>
> Worry about the tube being very fragile and breakable, make sure there's
> nothing that can fall on top of it or be dropped over it - if it shatters,
> it will implode and send lots of sharp heavy glass shards everywhere -
> wearing eye protection is a good idea just incase this happens. (If it
> does, you lost your Lisa as you're unlikely to find a replacement tube for
> it.) Worry about the high voltage, and currents. If you can wear a glove
> on the hand you'll use to adjust the settings, don't touch anything with
> the other hand that could be act as ground (i.e. the table, any metal
> parts inside the Lisa, etc.)
>
>
> You'll have to remove the back cover, then the top cover. Once you've
> removed the top cover, you can access the video board which is behind the
> CRT. The CRT's are quite fragile, so be very careful not to drop a
> screwdriver on top of it, or for that matter anything else. If you can,
> find a plastic screw driver, or something you can use in it's place - the
> video board has several sets of pots which can be used the adjust the
> vertical size, and vertical hold. Likely some component has gone a little
> bit bad or the pot itself has oxidized and isn't making a good connection,
> but you might be able to adjust one of these pots to fix it. Some may
> have some glue over them as a seal which you'll have to break in order to
> adjust.
>
> Also look for a screen modification kit, you'll know you have one by the
> ROM version or by the existance of a transformer between the CRT cable
> and the video board. If you see this, it's a modified Lisa that will have
> square pixels and will not run Lisa OS, only MacWorks. You could remove
> this transformer, but you'd also have to get a set of replacement ROM's or
> CPU board. The normal Lisa OS capable ROM's are versions F-H (you'll
> sometimes see D, though I'm not sure if the D ROM will be able to work
> with OS 3.x) If you see a two character ROM, it's likely the video size
> modified ROM. i.e. "AA" is not what you want to see.
>
> Once you get the display working, you'll know the ROM version for certain,
> it'll be displayed in the upper left corner on the menu bar as the Lisa
> POST works. It'll be something like H/A8 or H/88 - the H is the POST ROM
> version, if you see AA/88, you likely have a video modified ROM. The 88
> is the I/O ROM which lives on the I/O board along with the 6504 I/O CPU.
> The two versions I've come across are 88 and A8. Some of these support
> 800K floppies, If you ever come across a 40 or 44 or any I/O ROM below
> 80, hang on to that, it likely came from a Lisa 1 which had Twiggy drives,
> and is valuable - it won't work with a 400K floppy, but it will be worth
> some money.
>
> It's important to note the positions of all of the pots on the video
> board, incase you go too far and have to reset them to their normal
> values.
>
> If I recall correctly, the back cover has a little bit of plastic that
> sticks out - when it's closed, it mates with a somewhat hidden switch that
> cuts power whenever you open the back cover. I think it's over the power
> supply if I remember. Once you familiarize yourself with the video board
> and the other insides of the Lisa, and are sure you're safe, you'll have
> to plug up that hidden switch with something - a small piece of cardboard
> will do.
>
> You can then plug the power cable back in and power up the Lisa - then
> carefully insert your hand and the plastic screw driver, and adjust the
> vhold/vsize pots. Do it very very slowly.
> (If you know how to get into service mode, perhaps you'll want to plug the
> keyboard and mouse in before you power on the Lisa as there's an option in
> there to display a square grid - that way you can make sure the size
> aspect ratio is correct. I believe once the boot menu comes up you need
> to tell it to boot off a floppy but not insert one, then hit Apple-S or
> Apple-Enter - the one on the numeric keyboard. Haven't done that in a
> while, sorry. You could also boot LisaTest if you have it to test your
> video display - it also has display test patterns which you can use while
> adjusting the video board's pots.)
>
> Once you're happy with your change, you can hit the power switch and once
> the display is off, remove the bit of cardboard holding the hidden switch
> down, then close the covers back up, and turn the Lisa back on -
> hopefully, it'll hold it's new settings - otherwise, you may have to
> figure out what's bad on the video board and fix it, but that's a much
> more difficult task.
>
>
> Mike wrote:
>
>> Hello, I have been a lurker on this list for a good while now, picking
>> up little Lisa pieces of information from time to time. I haven't posted
>> before because I didn't own a Lisa, although the hunt was definitely on !
>> I have been lucky enough to get two Lisa's very recently. First
>> impression: aren't they big ?! Photographs don't really convey the size.
>> One Lisa is missing several parts which I am working on acquiring, the
>> other Lisa (a 2/10) powers up just fine, however there is a problem with
>> the screen, looks like the vertical hold has 'gone'. I have never worked
>> on a Lisa before, but have a dozen or so 68k Macs that I have restored,
>> so I know my way around old Apple products in general.
>>
>> Could anyone offer any tips or places to start to address the video issue
>> ? The display is readable, but is repeated down the screen three times,
>> with lots of flicker, and a bit of scrolling too.
>>
>> Many thanks
>> Mike
>>
>>
>
>
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