LisaList2

Have not tried it, but this picked my interest:

"The make lisaem-* targets boot the images in LisaEm without anyone at the emulator, type commands and check the output."

I could not figure out how this works. Are you sending these commands over a serial port or somehow "typing them in LisaEm" (similar to the "paste host clipboard" menu item)?

Why is this important: if you are developing something for the Lisa using AI, it would be extremely useful to "tell" the AI how to launch LisaEm and how to compile and run and test your new app by moving the mouse, clicking, typing text, inspecting the Lisa screen, etc. This way the AI can run in a close loop, without your intervention, until it completes the task.

"You're absolutely right."

@AlexTheCat123 Agreed 100%, that is/was a bad assumption and I'll get that fixed.

Impressive; so many things are being ported to the Lisa that it's almost overwhelming!

One quick note: The docs mention that the size of the hard disk image must be "exactly 5,175,296 bytes (9728 blocks) or 10,350,592 bytes (19456 blocks): ESProFile sets its spare table from the file size and only knows those two." This isn't true; ESProFile will happily accept an image of any size you want, and will make a custom spare table to match. That's how the 50MB LOS compilation image works. So you can have an utterly massive Minix disk if you want!

Wow!!!!

In the spirit of "all things on Lisa", I introduce to you a "port" of the Minix operating system for the Apple Lisa.



The repo https://github.com/arcanebyte/lisa-minix includes instructions for cross-compiling from macOS using gcc and also includes tooling to build out a ProFile image that's ready to go. Enjoy!

sigma7, are you a human?

I am growing more-and-more suspicious that you may be not:
You've been guiding berskyboy relentlessly to fix his power supply.
You've been posting voltage measurements of a working power supply, photos and custom-made schematics. I have't seen such level of dedication in humans...

Kudos if you are!

Quote from: sigma7 on September 21, 2026, 06:48:52 PMWith the black lead on pin 5 of the daughterboard's connector, put the red lead on each of the other connector pins and measure with diode test mode, and again with resistance mode.

Black to Pin 5, Red to Pin x
Pin x   DiodeTest Resistance  Signal. Measurements
1   inf   6k   +12 sense.     1.628
2   inf   10k   line sense.    1.842
3   1.1   >5k   +18V           0.949
4   inf   50k   on/off.        OL
-   -   -   ground
6   inf   2.6k   +5 sense.      1.196
7   inf   2.5k   current sense. 1.163
8   inf   >100k   /shutdown.     OL
9   inf   inf   /power fail.   OL
10   inf   inf   pull.          OL
11   inf   inf   push.          OL
12   1.1   >1k   logic +5.      0.871
13   inf   inf   /delay reset.  OL

Quote from: berskyboy on September 21, 2026, 06:41:13 PMHere's a photo of the board and maybe some solder bridges?  I thought the dot close together would be the same join?

The red arrows don't point to solder bridges as far as I can tell.

Referring to the black and white diagram, there should not be any solder that bridges across a white gap from one black section to a different black section. It can be very difficult to see a bridge in a photo, so you should look at the narrow white sections and carefully compare to your board.

Remove the daughterboard and check it while disconnected from the main board:

With the black lead on pin 5 of the daughterboard's connector, put the red lead on each of the other connector pins and measure with diode test mode, and again with resistance mode.

Black to Pin 5, Red to Pin x

Pin x	DiodeTest	Resistance	Signal
1	inf	6k	+12 sense
2	inf	10k	line sense
3	1.1	>5k	+18V
4	inf	50k	on/off
-	-	-	ground
6	inf	2.6k	+5 sense
7	inf	2.5k	current sense
8	inf	>100k	/shutdown
9	inf	inf	/power fail
10	inf	inf	pull
11	inf	inf	push
12	1.1	>1k	logic +5
13	inf	inf	/delay reset

Quote from: sigma7 on September 21, 2026, 04:49:48 PMI'll work on some measurement instructions to look for further failures on the daughterboard. In the meantime:

Use the image below to diligently check for any remaining solder bridges. If any remain, then Q1 and Q2 may be destroyed again after replacement, and further parts may be damaged too. Shiny solder joints hide subtle details, so after fully checking it once, it can be helpful to rotate the board and check again from a different angle.

If you find any bridges, take a picture/make a note of where they are as that information can help locate and/or eliminate additional components to suspect.

Here's a photo of the board and maybe some solder bridges?  I thought the dot close together would be the same join?

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hw98nypaj0xsqwhhfgoer/Soldure.Bridges.heic?rlkey=sa3nlcvognw0gys8tra246itb&st=dzc64371&dl=0